Friday, October 29, 2010

Farmer Brown!

Glad greetings to you all! Sorry for the long delay, but life on a rural New Zealand farm is very time consuming.  Ok, I'll admit it: I've been slacking during my free time and reading up a storm. This family has a rock star library so I had to take advantage of it.  I traded a REALLY good book a couple of weeks back for a really crap book that I thought was going to be amazing. It was almost torture having to finish it.  Does that ever happen?  You start a book, so full of promise...and then you feel like Dr. Phil just walked in the room and you want to seriously punch him in the face?  Yep.  That was this book.  It's ok though-I read ANOTHER terrible book, but this book was so terrible that it was funny.  I don't honestly know how it got published! Look for it on the super-bargain table at Cashwise:  Bali Moon. :)

On to important things, like my fake farmer lifestyle!  I have had some totally amazing things go on.  First, I got to go on four-wheeler/quad/motorbike and help muster sheep.  What this means is that I sat on the back while Stacey (who runs the farm) drove like a maniac up and down hills shouting at her dogs.  I have the bruise the size of Mt. Everest on the back of my leg.  There are actually two stripes and then a giant mass of ugly.  It's so amazing.  It's the best bruise I have ever seen.  It's so good I might take a picture and post it here.  Well, maybe.  No one needs to see my thigh, really, and would that be somehow scandalous?  Hmmm.  I'll consider it.

I was hoping to get a crack at shearing.  I actually will get a crack at shearing (that's right folks-me, of the pink platform wedges and skirts in bad weather will be shearing a sheep) tomorrow, so let me re-phrase:  I was hoping to get a crack at shearing with the two ridiculously well-muscled fellows who were here shearing the 1000+ sheep roaming around this place.  One was married and the other was named Trident.  Like Poseidon's weapon, not the gum-it's not sold here.  Sigh.  Oh, sorry, back on focus!  I'll get to learn how to shear sheep tomorrow.  Today I helped Stacey put bands on lamb tails and notch their ears; I handed her tools and re-loaded her rubber band gun.  She did all of the actual work.  What a miserable job.  All I wanted to do was cuddle with this really cute little lamb, but instead I got covered in poo.  I was so dirty when I was finished that I had to shave my legs to remove the grime from them.  I washed them, I scrubbed them, then I shaved them...and dirt was still coming off! :(  So I had to shave twice.  I'm slightly razor-burned but clean.  Hey-razor burn is better than sheep poo, right?

I've been looking after a wee one named Anya.  We get on famously because I do important things like roll down hills let her dance on my feet. I also pull her around the grass on her sled and teach her how to say "woooooooooooooooooooooooooo" with a funny face. She's not quite two. You can understand how we're practically the same.

The family here is really amazing, anyway.  I've been treated so warmly and have been welcomed like I've known them my whole life.  I'm leaving next Wednesday, but it's good or I probably would NEVER get to the South Island.  I'd never want to leave!  There's a lot of coffee, lots of books, beautiful views, nice family, fun kiddo...sweet mother of pearl!  I better stop thinking about it and start plotting my camping trip up Mt. Doom (Tongariro Crossing, Round 2).

There are tales of Dog Trials, but that's another post.  Now you can all look forward to creeper Moustache man, and I don't mean the one I was madly for at work!

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Breaking Up Is Hard To Do...

Leonie and I are parting ways. I will be WWOOF-ing on a farm with a wee one, horses, cows, and a woman named Stacey. I am deciding right now on one of these 2 choices: go only partly through Australia, changing my existing ticket so its value is not lost, and finish traveling it once their summer has ended; or go straight to Indonesia and travel all of Australia after its summer has ended. This is a purely monetary decision, of course. P.S. Potential Travelers, if you are winging your travels like I do, 6 weeks is not nearly enough time for New Zealand. I could have hustled my arse a bit more, certainly, but that takes the fun out of traveling and it becomes work again. If that were my goal, I would save my money and go back to the land of the employed. :) Whatever my end destination turns out to be (Australia or Bali), I will leaving here in early-to-mid-December versus 8 November.

Back to the breaking up part of this story! Leo needs to work for a bit, but she won’t have a job available for 2 weeks and then she will work for 2-3 weeks. So, I think we’ll be able to meet up somewhere and still travel the South Island together. If we are not able to meet up, well, we’ve certainly had a blast and met amazing people along the way. She is a gem and will (eventually) come to the States for good eats (I’ve got a list of things to make, along with the creation of macaroni and cheese pie) and good company. She will WWOOF as well, but at a different location. She will stay in the Wanganui area and I am going to a place between Auckland and Hamilton called Rangiriri. I could try to stay and WWOOF with Leo, but this opportunity seems a perfect fit for me and I can start tomorrow. You can’t fight the universe; I’m going to go with its flow and see what it brings. As I said to someone very dear to me, the world spins on; all we can do is spin with it. I like this organic thinking of mine! Can you imagine, former co-workers, how very easy-going I actually am? I TOLD you, though I’m certain no one believed me. NO OCD BREAKDOWNS!

One side note: due to my extending my trip in NZ and heading back a little bit north, I will conveniently be passing Mt. Tongariro again…so I still have a chance to do the crazy 20K Alpine Crossing that is on my must-do list. See how the universe comes together, just like that?

Monday, October 18, 2010

More photos...

A view from Mt. Mangaui in one of our favorite places so far, Tauranga (on the West Coast, North Island).

Part of the path up on Mt. Manganui.  That's a lot of blue!

More views from Mt. Manganui...

Hey wait!  Mt. Manganui views!

Ah, getting ready for sunset on a crazy, winding road on the Coromandel Peninsula (West Coast, North Island).

A beach in Tauranga.

That's me on the back, and Leonie on the front, enjoying a machine at The Waterworks (Coromandel Peninsula) that squirts water at people the more vigorously you...ride it.  Oh dear. Are there children reading this?  I don't think it should sound so scandalous!

Me, and just for you, dolls! :)

Four lovely boys who made a FANTASTIC BBQ and shared with us.  I'm in love with all of them as a result of their good cooking. Hearts fellows!

Ah, more sun getting ready to set, this time at Spirits Bay Campground, near Cape Reigna area, Northland.  It was a beautiful beach. Mom, if you get your shells in one piece, this is when and where I got them.

Another view on another day at Spirits Bay Campground, also known as the place where I met Nadine and Hannah and ate freshly caught shark (thanks Rico and the Mau).

Photos!

A view of Auckland, NZ

Delicious mussels in Auckland (with amazing beer in the background).

Driving into Auckland-there is a Sky Tower and Harbor Bridge, just like in Sydney.  Maybe they are related?

The 90-mile beach, in Northland, NZ.  It's not really 90 miles though-years ago, it was measured on the amount of time it took 3 horses to get from top to bottom.  It's actually more like 60 kilometers...

That's me, in the plaid, after a SPECTAUCLAR crash after sand-surfing.  My trip down was amazing, but at the end I stopped too quick and ended up going end-over-end and eventually landing on my bum.  It was the best/worst landing of the day.

Self-descriptive...

Here is the actual meeting point.  Tasman Sea, welcome to the Pacific Ocean.

Cape Maria Van Diemen, in Northland, NZ (near Cape Reigna), taken from a lighthouse.

That's me, after some amazing slow-motion climbing.  It looks I was bringing my elbow over to do some punching, but I'm smiling so no worries. Those kiddies are Anel and Lucas, whose parents took us in for a couple of nights.  They are awesome (kiddies and parents). :)

Ah, sheep and green. That's NZ!

Wait, rugged and green with crazy weather...THAT'S NZ!

My amazing hostel sheets. I was a princess!

Lilacs in Kerikeri. They had bigger blooms but I followed my nose to the scent.  Luckily it's unmistakable since I'm slightly agronomically challenged...

Shouldn't EVERY community have this?  Need some advice about your life friends?  Come on down to th Advice Bureau!  I want to open one in the States. I'll be like Lucy from "Peanuts" but not so mean and definitely more expensive.

Look at the house that follows...

I wanted to offer them $50 cash money, on the spot, but the realtor didn't want to talk about it.  Can you imagine? Harumph!

Part of the NZ bush, along a hiking trail in Kerikeri (on the East Coast, Northland).

Do you see that white spot?  That's me, after successfully navigating, barefoot, some crazy, mossy, slippery, craggy rocks to get to the cave behind that waterfall. Apologies again to Leo, Nadine, and Hannah who patiently waited for me to (a) not die and (2) finish my on-the-whim scurry.

That's me in the foreground.  You can see why I wanted to go-it's amazingly beautiful!  Rainbow Falls, Kerikeri.

What I did in my spare time one evening (under the influence of a VERY small glass of wine, so it's no excuse):  I created The Essential Mao Guidebook to Getting German Girls.  I think I noted this story in an earlier post. :)

So, that's it for now!  More pictures coming...sometime. Safe travels for me until then, and greetings to all from rainy Wanganui, NZ (West Coast, North Island).

YES!

Greetings from Wanganui!  I am pleased to report that even with rain, massive wind, and then freezing rain, I woke up this morning tired but dry. Hooray for my $15 tent! 

Friday, October 15, 2010

A Funny Dream...

So, I didn’t feel the best last night. I had a chance to do the Tongariro Alpine Crossing with borrowed gear, but it’s almost 20 kilometers up, over, and around a mountain. I talked myself out of it, which I now regret, as more bad weather is arriving and I’ve missed my chance. More on that later. I couldn’t stop thinking about it, though, so it showed up in my dreams. In my dream, the Crossing got closed and everyone had to turn back. I was on the bus by myself with…Gerard Butler, that dreamy Scottish actor (but only when he isn’t in weird romantic comedies or using an American accent) who just happened to be my bus driver. He and I had a good laugh at everyone else who had to turn around, and he complimented my wit in not going. He was drinking beer (while driving the bus) and using his natural Scottish accent. I suspect my subconscious was trying to compensate my sorrow and disappointment by having a beer swilling and cursing Scotsman show up and laugh about all those other fools. In actuality, the weather is lovely today and probably won’t be lovely for more than a week, so I’m not sure what to do. Leonie may need to work; crossing to the South Island by ferry is REALLY expensive. We think it is more than $250 (ouch) for both of us plus car. For just me, I think it’s around $30, which is much more in my price range. We are going to decide on Saturday, once we see what both of our finances will allow. We’ve had a lot of fun but we both need to do what is best for ourselves on an individual basis. Here's to being spartan on the South Island!

Stories from the OTHER Land Down Under!

Hiya Shoestringers!  First of all, I don't know if I've shared the fact that I'm on a road trip.  I may have, but sometimes I forget if I've written in my journal, in an email, or just spoken it out loud.  The problem with being an unemployed slacker is just that:  you're an unemployed slacker. :)  If these details have already been shared then, sorry!  If not, hey kids!  I'm on a road trip with a German girl I met in Kaitaia named Leonie. She had a car and no travel mate, so we've been jaunting around the North Island.  I've put together a recap of where we have been.  Without further adieu, New Zealand, North Island recap, Round 1:

After Kaitaia, Leonie and I took the first leg of our road trip. We drove to a town called Kerikeri, which is a small piece of paradise. How to describe…let’s see: take the best parts of Florida, California, and the Greek Islands, mix them together and…voila! It has some artistic vibes, some beach vibes, gorgeous trees, flowers, and water, and overall caused me to fall madly in love with it. Leo and I spent the better part of one day hiking; after 7 hours (neither of us realized we had been hiking for 7 hours-that’s how amazing it was), we ran into Hannah and Nadine, our German friends from the campground. We were so excited, and the girls came to stay at our hostel where we spent another two nights having an absolute blast. I crafted my Mao handbook (on picking up German girls, which essentially tells the reader to shout silly things-it’s not very useful but it was fun to make and good for a laugh) and Nadine did some original artwork. We all had so much fun-it was hard to say goodbye to them, but I think we’ll see them again. I HOPE we’ll see them again.

There is a place in Kerikeri called Rainbow Falls. All four of us hiked there. Nadine taught me some German (she is going to be a great teacher in Thailand!) on the way. I’ll include my amazing vocabulary at another time…mostly because I have forgotten it without my amazing German instructor! Wait, I’m traveling with a different German. I should stop being such a slacker and try to really learn it. Another day. ANYHOO-behind this waterfall was a cave. It was impossible to get to it. I took off my hikers and socks and waded into the water. It was deep almost immediately; two steps and I was up to my waist. My knickers were soaked and my shirt was halfway soaked. It is early spring here so the water is…chilly. Quite chilly! Possibly cold. I was totally determined to make it to that cave, so I decided I should just swim. I have a picture that shows the distance. In cold water it is not very close. The main issue, besides the cold, was the steep wall of rocks leading up to it. I climbed out of the water and ran barefoot up this rocky/branchy/ouchy terrain and saw a way down the rocks, over the rocks, under the rocks, and into the cave, and I took it. After-the-fact, I felt pretty badly that I didn’t ask my hiking mates if they were ok to wait for me. It was the most bizarre urge I have ever had: the rocks were slippery and covered in moss and algae, there was no actual path, it was chilly, and I have never been more determined to do anything in my life. It was plain nutters! Off I went, using my toes as grips, sliding in awkward positions, staining my WHITE shirt (bad plan also) with moss, algae, and mud, when I reached an impasse. It was a REALLY horrible spot-I had to stretch my leg out, grip a slippery rock with my toes, and throw myself with no grip to the other side. In normal life I would have said “enough,” but nutters here was determined to make it all the way…so throw myself I did. To summarize, I made it!! So excited for the accomplishment, so full of dread for the return across that rock. But I made it, obviously, with no difficulties. It seems a silly thing, being so ecstatic about head-first plunging into something so small, but I was so pleased to be the only one of my group who wasn’t afraid of getting wet, cold, filthy, or injured. Small victory, but I’ll take it!

Just one more quick note on Kerikeri: Hannah is determined to have the best English vocabulary ever, and I think she is well on her way. She and I covered the meaning of important words like “ruminant” and “fly swatter.” Love her!

After Kerikeri, Leo and I drove to the Coromandel Peninsula. Wild, untamed, and unlike anything else we had seen so far, we were both instantly in love with it. We drove up the twisty, curvy, crazy road on the edge of a cliff (water on one side, crag on the other, no protection if you drive to fast-Dad would love it!) and discovered the MOST amazing sky. We had to pull over to watch the sunset. Pictures to follow-you’ll love me for showing you its spectacular-ness and hate me for getting to be the egg that’s here and enjoying it (versus you, dedicated shoestringers). At the little park where we pulled over, there was a swing. It was the most amazing, fantastic, add-more-superlatives-because-I-am-running-out thing to have at this dramatic cliff. Then we watched the stars show up and wondered if we had died and found ourselves in traveler heaven.

We stayed at a super-fun hostel that was also hosting several Swiss travelers, some Czech girls, and some nice Saudi Arabian boys. They were all so much fun! We had a blast with the Saudi boys and they invited us to their picnic the next day. We went to a place called The Waterworks, which is a playground but sized for adults as well as children. Wait until you see me flying on the bicycle! There were four boys who were all polite, funny, and solid cooks. We had a great afternoon with them, and we hope to see them again. The next day we spent some time with one of the Swiss couples, who were so lovely and funny. We had lots of laughs over breakfast, and as they are traveling south we just might see them again, too. We hope!

We headed for Tauranga next, where Rico’s mom and dad took us in. To refresh, Rico is the funny-yet-enlightened guy from the campground. The Mau and Rico were both there, and they were hospitable and gracious, and Raewyn and Graham (the parents) were exactly the same. Twice now we have been taken in my virtual strangers, and it’s a really good feeling! We spent two nights with them as well, and we got to meet Graham’s dad, Trevor. He was so cute!! I’ll send a postcard to him from Wellington, at Graham’s suggestion. Great people, and more fun times. Tauranga was beautiful, of course. We climbed up to the top of the town mountain (it’s a glorified hill, no one get excited) and had incredible views and an amazing time. I can say that on that day, Tauranga mountain day, was the single day I have felt best in my life. I climbed up this tall hill/small mountain and felt like I should run a marathon. Amazing. I think it’s something in the water, or at least in Raewyn’s cooking. :)

I did my first driving in Tauranga! It’s wacky here: you know, British-style, with the driver on the opposite side of the car and the car on the opposite side of the road. It took a minute or two (or ten), but I got used to it pretty quickly. I have driven now three times, all of when Leonie is tired. So, I get great views and silence, and the fun of driving. Here I thought I wouldn’t be driving for eight months! It was less than one.

Tomorrow might be the end of our road, so it possibly *will* be the last time I drive…for 7 months. We drove from Tauranga to Rotorua, where we spent one night so we could drop some cash on a Maori cultural evening. It was spendy (not a shoestring activity, but honestly, how often will I be in New Zealand?) but worth every penny. Our bus driver who took us there was hysterical and kept calling me a smart ass. I can’t imagine why! I was charming and sweet. Mostly. We ate food cooked in the ground, we watched dancing and great music, and learned a little about what life was like just 140 years ago for the Maori. I still haven’t learned about the blue tattoos though. I’ll get on it shortly. I’m curious about it! The chief man (the man from an earlier post who had amazing tattoos on his thighs, his very well-defined and tanned thighs…sorry Dad!) had lots but I was drooling a little and couldn’t speak. I was drooling from the dinner, sillies! I did talk to Master Chef man, who was tall and obviously knows how to cook. He may have been dreamier than Thigh Master Chief Man. Chief Man was shorter than me, but he could have kicked my arse easily. I may have let him…

We also saw a geothermal spring called “Hell’s Gate.” It was definitely awesome, despite the constant smell of sulfur (all of Rotorua smells that way-it is the spa-mud capital of New Zealand, I think) and the rain. I have lots of solid pictures from there, and I also did some carving! When I say “carving,” you  realize that I made a hot mess and the man in charge of the carving fixed it for me. He said I could take all the credit, but let’s be honest-if I did THAT, someone would want me to carve something and I’d have to fess up to being a terrible liar. So there it is kids: I am TERRIBLE at carving wood. But Maori Benjamin is awesome.

I am writing you know from Turangi, gateway to Mt. Tongariro and its National Park. We both needed a little rest, and by “rest” I mean we only took a 3.5 hour hike today. However, we didn’t socialize with anyone, including each other, and I think it is beneficial for us both. It’s 7:00 in the evening; we have eaten dinner, we’ve almost finished laundry, Leo is finishing her nap, and I am finishing all of this writing. We may do something simple tonight like watch a movie, but who knows what the evening will bring?

What I can say so far is this: New Zealand is just as beautiful as it looks on TV/movies. The people are the nicest I’ve ever encountered. It’s wonderfully safe, mildly expensive, and worth every penny. Three weeks to go here, then back to Australia and on to Indonesia where I can super-shoestring it (I mean tenting on a beach and going swimming instead of taking showers. I will be gross and I can’t wait…) and possibly work. I will volunteer there a bit by WWOOF-ing but I might try to get a real job, too, so that I can stay longer, live like a queen (and by queen I mean “take a shower”), and see more of the country. This remains to be seen...

A couple of last notes on Sydney...

I said I was done. But I was bizarrely social, so I have lots of stories to share. That being said, here are some random treasures I had listed in my notebook.

One Saturday evening, the nice Canadian girl and I went to her friend’s b-day party at a place called the Q-Bar. The Q-Bar had just completed a burlesque show, so everyone was superlatively dressed. I was not-I had on a basic gray skirt, tank, and flip-flops. I couldn’t bring my amazing pink wedges, could I? Anyhoo, Nice Canadian Girl was getting chatted up by a fella, and I suddenly found myself on the other side of mad love. The bartender was giving me eyes, and blowing kisses and making heart gestures at me (you know, putting your hands in the shape of hearts, JUST LIKE I DO). He then immediately ditched my plastic glass for a glass…glass (that was an awkward statement) and batted his eyes at me. He became my gay boyfriend for 4.5 seconds! I might not be giving merit to the depths of our love: it may have lasted 3 minutes. Then we had to break up as I went to have a dance party.

There was this super-amazing dancer-man who was in our party of people; I am NOT super-amazing dancer-girl. Or am I?

My inner Molly Ringwald came out. I don’t know what song it was, but all of a sudden I was doing an exact replication of the “Claire cuts loose” scene from The Breakfast Club AND teaching amazing dancer-man how to do it.

Don’t anyone pass out. Amy has seen me try to Latin Dance. It’s not pretty so let me have my moment!! When I say that, I actually mean: Let me have my moment without too much mockery. ;)

Here is an unrelated fun fact about Australian flora. The Gymea Lily can grow up to 8 meters high and generally has lovely reddish-purplish flowers on it. It is one of the first plants to have re-growth after bush fires. What, you might be wondering, causes a bush fire? Eucalyptus Oil, when presented with great heat, starts on fire. That’s right-it combusts. This propagates the seeds. Since the fire burns from top to bottom, the seeds fall onto the mostly unharmed ground where they have a chance to root and grow. I learned this fun fact outside of the Museum of New South Wales. A lovely lady saw me taking a photo of the Gymea Lily and started telling me this info. Her name was Leisel. Isn’t that so perfect?

So that's it for Sydney now, for sure.  I have lots of stories from New Zealand that I post, and I'll TRY to do pictures but it will have to be tomorrow. Cheers!

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Where AM I?

Greetings from Rotorua! I have been a terrible slacker, haven’t I? In my defense, everything has been AMAZING so I haven’t had a ton of free time. Also, I have to pay for internet unless I go to a public library and they all close at 5:00. How un-shoestring would that be? So here is a quick recap of some of the unbelievably awesome things that I have been busy with:

Walking
Smiling
Meeting super-awesome people
Being astounded each day with something more beautiful than the day before
Looking at sheep
Wondering why no one in my neighborhood has the world’s cutest cow (pictures to follow)
Climbing into a cave behind a waterfall (I’ll share the whole story)
Visiting the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean at the same time
Learning about meditation and talking to trees (I just learned about it, stop judging!!)
Eating shark CAUGHT WITH A SPEAR
Seeing a super-awesome Maori-tattooed man and wondering (a) is he single; (2) what do all those tattoos on his well-muscled legs mean?

For now, I will leave you with these yummy morsels. I will visit a library by the end of the week to upload pictures. I have a thousand. Literally. I am trying to get all of them on a public page, but every time I try to go to “online photo storage” the internet goes mad-cow and I can’t continue. But I’m working on it! I’ll add a link with lots of photos soon and get at least a few posted ASAP. The shoestring is doing good. I haven’t splurged on much…but food is REALLY expensive here. An example: I bought ONE CUCUMBER on sale for…$2.25. For a CUCUMBER. :( Eggs cost more than $5 per dozen. Those are, like, my two favorite foods. The good thing to remember is that this is an island so they don’t have all of the resources that we do. Also, the people are SO NICE that I can’t even be grumpy about it.

As an unrelated side note, I have named my backpack “Moustache.” This will mean very little to many people but should give chuckles to a few. Why would I want to carry the world’s grumpiest man on my shoulders? Because this is the happiest, friendliest, warmest (not in temperature) place on earth and even Moustache would have a smile. :)
 
Carrying on to travel-related things, we should be hitting Wellington in a couple of days and the South Island a couple of days after that.  There was a crazy amount of snow in the Tongariro Mountain Range, home of the now-closed Tongariro Alpine Hike.  For all who enjoy channeling his/her inner geek, Mt. Tongariro is the real-life Mordor from LOTR.  I was going to hike it but now I can't. Grrr snow, grrr!  What this means is that I will be forced back to New Zealand at some point in my life.  Phew. I feel better already!