Monday, December 27, 2010

A Possum, A Girl, A Boy, and A Sea Kayak Guide

As promised, here is the tale of the aforementioned excitement in Abel Tasman National Park.

First, a preface: it is hard to carry food, water, and a butane cooker on your back, along with a tent, air mattress, and sleeping bag. Concessions must get made then, and things get left behind, namely a butane cooker and dry food. This means that we made our food in advance, which is NOT a good idea, but we weren't really thinking as our Abel Tasman trip was rather spontaneous. It SEEMED like a great idea but by day 2 out of 5 we were convinced it was most definitely a bad plan.

Another preface: I have a tent for 2 people, which can fit 2 people and gear in a snug fashion. There were 3 of us. I was the only one with a tent. This meant that 3 of us were in the tent and our gear was outside, wrapped in plastic.

That all being said, on night 2 we heard a rustling sound. To be exact, Freddy heard a rustling sound and had to wake up her champion sleeper tent mates. Paul was next to the door, then Freddy, then me, so it was difficult, in my defense, to get out. Poor Paul had to get out to see what exactly was going on, and what he saw was a critter in my backpack! He was shining a light at it, and from the shadow on the tent I determined it was most likely a wolverine with gills. Paul found his inner machismo and took out a knife and my trekking pole, both of which he threw at this strange and foreign creature. Ok, ok, the knife wasn't OPEN (it's a large, military-issue pocket knife) and my trekking pole is lightweight fiberglass, but still, who knew what could happen with this horrible wildebeest scrounging through my stuff! This epic battle between man and beast went on until nearly daybreak, as the critter would not leave my pack alone. We finally all had to get up (after Paul had to get up, oh, 17 times, no exaggeration) when the terrible discovery occurred: the amphibious mammal (remember, a wolverine with gills!) tore through our plastic covering, OPENED THE ZIPPER ON MY BACKPACK, and proceeded to eat our limited supply of rice and beans!!

Our first thought was distress. We had days to travel still, and while we could have pansied out of our trek and taken a water taxi home, that was not on our agenda (or budget). My next thought was positive. Somehow things have a way of working out, even when they shouldn't or it would appear that they won't. Our plan then, was to simply relax on the beach, get some rest, and take an easy hike that afternoon to the next campground. None of us had a lot of sleep due to the nocturnal battle waged to save our treasure. I read Dostoevsky on the beach (which sounds an awful lot like Kafka on the Shore, a book I really love, but no...I read The Idiot, just to clear up any literary confusion here) to console myself and felt pretty good about the whole thing. I was baking in the sun and decided to go change out of my bather and sit in the shade of our campground, and probably get moving as well. I checked out the rice and beans, and I don't know if it was froggerine induced, but the sight of my torn-up bag and the PAW PRINTS ON MY BACKPACK IN RICE FROM THAT LITTLE F@!$ER really made me want to vomit. I immediately went to the outhouse to change, and when I came out, there was a dude waiting for me. My initial reaction was “creeper,” but then he said the following magical words:

“Would you like some fresh veggies?”

My response? “I love you.” It just came out, of course, as these things do when it comes to me. But it was fine-he was a really nice Kiwi fellow, not a creeper, and he was making dinner for his clients. It turns out he is a sea kayak guide and had a party of 6 scheduled but only 2 of the 6 actually wanted to go. I told him the tale of froggerine and he corrected me-it was clearly a possum and we should just kill the little bugger as they are considered a rodent in NZ (which I did know-everyone hates the little suckers around here). He then said he would probably have a ton of leftover food from dinner and we could have the rest. I may have declared my love for him at this point again. I suspect I hugged him, too. He was well-muscled and full of cool tattoos and super-nice, so that's not all bad...right? Paul and Freddy turned up from the beach at this point, introductions were made, and we decided to stay the night at the same campground again. We then had a feast of veggies, including raw carrots. Anyone who knows me well knows I am not a big fan of raw carrots. But I ate them, happily. We ate slowly, savoring every bite, like we hadn't eaten in years. It sounds absurd, doesn't it? It had been 2 days of limited food and yet it tasted like it had been 2 years of limited food. It made all of us conscious of how spoiled we are in our lives, and really thankful for being so spoiled.

The hero of our story then brought over chicken stir fry, freshly cooked, and I definitely hugged the man then. Then he brought us dessert-cake with warm custard sauce and fresh strawberries, and he mentioned he had snacks. Paul tried to sell me for the snacks. I so happy with all of the amazing food I wasn't even SAD about it! Can you imagine? Luckily the guy had some morals (he is quite a bit older than me, and I quite a bit older than my travel mates) or he was put off by the fact that none of us had showered. I did scrub my scalp and took a swim, but I was positively feral.

Hero then offered us each a beer, and I think Paul was willing to sell Freddy and I together or himself if it was necessary. Luckily it was not! While enjoying our beer, the antagonist of our tale turned up again. We left our backpacks unattended, and whose pack did the little weasel go after this time? MINE. AGAIN. This time he was after my trail mix, and that was the last straw. I squealed like a little girl and hero came running over with an oar and a giant stick so he could club it to death.

Softy over here was devastated, even though I was mad, and I preferred Paul's gentle machismo to this jazz. I put on my headlamp (a torch that affixes to one's head, the greatest invention of all time so stop your laughing) and flashed the red “warning! Danger!” lights at it Then, just like during bull riding, I was secretly cheering for the critter. I didn't want it to get clubbed to death! It really was my fault this time, too, for leaving my pack without taking precautions to ensure its safety.

In the end, the possum/froggerine got away and left my newly secured gear alone. Hero fed us breakfast, Paul tried to sell me again, I was drunk on food and gave the dude my phone number...and may have offered him a massage. Wait, that may have been Paul again. Either way, I did give him my phone number, and Paul gave him his email address and phone number, too, so we can extend him some hospitality when he comes to the US again.

Therefore, if a tattooed and well-muscled Kiwi man comes to your door (he like motorcycles and cursing), please extend him the same courtesy he has shown to us. And, if you could hook him up with a massage, that will probably get me off the hook for god-knows-what...

Don't mention any stray dogs or woeful critters though. I can't guarantee their safety.

What can $10 get you in Indonesia?

I am astounded at how inexpensive things are here, especially after the mind-blowing expense of things in New Zealand. I've put in local currency and the US conversion. Without further adieu, treasures on the cheap. :)

50 sheets of loose-leaf paper: 2,900 IDR ($0.33)
Cotton swabs (160 count): 2,250 IDR ($0.25)
Johnson's Lavender Baby Oil (125ml): 15,950 IDR ($1.77)
Biore Anti-Acne/Oil Control Cleanser: 15,350IDR ($1.71)
Bar of “Fresh & Natural Soap,” orange/mango scent: 1,150 IDR ($0.13)
Oral B “Shiny Clean” toothbrush: 1,950 IDR ($0.22)
“So Klin” Laundry Detergent , 340g (Magic Crystal Scent, whatever that is): 3,750 IDR ($0.42)
Herbal Essences Conditioner: 16,500 IDR ($1.83)
4 avocados: 17, 040 IDR ($1.89)
4 bananas: 9,800 IDR ($1.09)
Rose Chocolate Biscuits (they aren't so good, oh well): 3250 IDR ($0.36)

Grand Total: $10

Take THAT Wally-World! These darn avocados are always so much. But...they are giant-sized and I eat one for a meal (with bread and tomatoes), and they are super-healthy. I must say, however, they are not nearly as good as the ones in NZ, nor are they as good as the ones in the States. Oh well. Here's to my health!

Sunday, December 26, 2010

Christmas greetings from the Shoestring!

Warm holiday greetings from the Shoestring! I hope everyone had a great day with family and friends and that you stuffed yourselves silly. Christmas Eve was the first day of sun I have seen since I've been in Bali, and so my neighbor and I treated ourselves to grilled fish and an espresso. Actually, I treated her to the espresso, as she drives me all around on her motorbike, which is quite nice. Motorbikes here are like a hybrid scooter, so I think I would be really good at driving them. However, having never driven one before, I am quite certain I would be immediately killed in the traffic. Espresso was my little gift of thanks.

We drank the espresso in a restaurant that has outdoor seating overlooking a beautiful water lily pond. A rice field is just behind the restaurant, and the whole thing would have been nearly surreal in its beauty...if not for the terrible traffic blaring behind us almost continually.

We then treated ourselves to wine at The Deli Cat (that is seriously what it is called) and ran into an artist we've become acquainted with, Emile. Emile took us on a wild drive through rice fields and up a mountain to take photos of the moon. So, at midnight on Christmas morning, I found myself at a Padang restaurant eating rice with Isa (my neighbor) and Emile. It was, I must admit, amazing.

More fish followed for Christmas Day, but this time I had grilled Mahi-Mahi (and it was DELISH). We went to our Russian friend's house for coffee and conversation and got trapped in one of the most vicious rainstorms yet. As a result, we spent the afternoon painting (I know-I'm the worst artist ever, but it was still fun. I channeled my inner Rothko!) and ordered delivery pizza. Merry Christmas to me! It was quiet fun. Not as amazing as eating mom's amazing turkey and losing in Monopoly to Kirtie, but for being 9000 miles from home, it wasn't too bad.

Dancing was to ensue at our local hangout post-rain, but the DJ never showed up. There was a live band playing very low-key music instead. So, one beer at the bar, one game of solitaire at home (I love my Hello Kitty playing cards), and bed.

After Christmas things started to get pretty exciting around here. I became social! And I got the flu. For TEN DAYS. And I played nurse (nothing scandalous people-ACTUAL nurse). Stories to follow...

Bali Hai!

Northern Australia, taken from the airplane.

I love the screen that shows you where the heck you are. I, as you can see, was nearing Bali. :)

The garden of the bungalow I'm staying at.  All this beauty, plus a private room, private loo (with hot water shower), breakfast, and free tea and coffee all day, for the bargain price of only $8.  I know.  It rocks.

There was a huge rainstorm my first night here.  This is some of the leftover rain at a very early hour in the morning.

My sidewalk after a massive rainstorm. It's paradise, even with all the water (maybe because of the water?).

Rice terraces.

Workers in a rice field.

Tampaksering's Temple. 

The devoted (Hindus) and wannabes (tourists) converge under the fresh spring (holy) water from the mountain.  Each stream of water has a different purpose, such as bringing health after sickness, restoring your outward appearance to your inner youth (so if you are a crotchety old soul it would not be recommended...), etc.

Praying at Tempaksering's Temple.

The beautiful carved interior of the temple.

Ummm...ok.

Funny fruit on the outside, crunchy, chewy and strange on the inside.

The holiest mountain in Bali (it's also a volcano).

A temple statue within the Monkey sanctuary.

More views of the temple...

Monkeys!

More monkey.

Isn't he so thoughtful looking?  I like that monkey best.  Well, besides the really cute baby monkey coming up...

Mama and baby.

Another temple in the Monkey sanctuary (there were 3, I think, plus a place for cremation ceremonies).

Beautiful wood carving at a different temple (the Balinese are very religious, clearly).

Sorry-I forgot who this was. Siwa?  I'll find out.

Another gorgeous garden, at another gorgeous temple.

The same temple, also with holy spring water.

These little critters stay alive for approximately 1 hour.  They flutter around the light, die, and get eaten by lizards.

That's all that remains...the geckos hadn't gotten to them yet.

Monday, December 13, 2010

Something Helpful:

 I don't know the name of the bungalow I'm staying at. When dudes (now that I'm walking around without my French retiree friend, the creepers are out in force) ask me “where are you staying? In case you want company...” I can honestly say that I don't know. It makes me (a) not have to lie, as I am bad at it, and (2) creeper free at my accommodation. Hooray!

Observation of the Day...

Today I took a break from reading my (historical fiction*) book about Israel to take salsa lessons in Bali. My next goal is to read my (historical fiction*) book on Cuba while taking belly-dancing lessons in Laos. Dreams, sweet dreams. :)


*Somehow I've ended up with not one, but TWO Leon Uris books from two separate book trades. This comes after getting not one, but TWO Dostoevsky books from two separate book trades. Good things come in threes, so I should, in theory, read two more awesome books by the same author before this trip is done.

Thursday, December 9, 2010

New Zealand Recap, in Photos...





A view from Abel Tasman NP.


Kawakawa Falls, or something like that, on Highway 1...somewhere between Turangi and Wanganui.

 

Black swans, and NOT ugly ducklings, on Lake Virginia, Wanganui.

Beautiful sunset over ugly road, Wanganui.


Action shot of Jake the dog chasing a sheep at my farm stay, rural Glen Murray.
Jake, Kate, Anya (she's human) and me, posing for the camera after some sheep rustling.

A view of part of one of the paddocks on the Leigh farm, rural Glen Murray.

Anya and I doing what we do (smiling or being silly, mostly)...

I am captivating, but only to these cows.

:(

Anya channeling her inner me and being REALLY silly. A large part of my days were spent like this.

Anya. She's so cute.

Me. Not as cute.

NZ money, in case you were curious!

The war museum, Auckland. Note the flag, just so you know it's really NZ. :)

One Tree Hill, as seen from Mt. Eden, Auckland.

Stairs, hills. Stairs, hills. That's walking in NZ. Why aren't my thighs amazing?

The biggest entrance to a bus ever. It wasn't intimidated by my backpack.

Timo, German kid who drove me to Napier. Awesome fellow. Note the "T" he is making...

I am making a "G" and Timo is making a "T," as in Grill-Master T. :)  He made burger beef. Enough said.

Freddy and Paul, my future travel mates.


A whole world dedicated to NZ's arch-enemy.

Napier.

Paul, being a statue, and Freddy, wondering why Paul is being a statue.

I have no words, other than Napier WAS a strange place...

Lake Taupo.

Mt. Doom, otherwise known as Mt. Ngaurahoe.

Lava rocks on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.

The best one of these "What to Do in case of a volcano" points?  Stay away from the mountain.  Good, though seemingly obvious advice...

Mt. Doom (Ngaurahoe) again.  You'll potentially see more...

Crater on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.

Another view of the crater. 

Glistening lake on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.

The Red Crater, Tongariro Crossing.

Me, oh me, at the top of the Emerald Lakes.

 A much prettier view of the lakes...

The red crater, Mt. Ngaurahoe, big piles of amazing, Tongariro Crossing.

A view of the lakes and land beyond the volcanoes.

The only bit of color in poor Wellington this day: sailboats in the harbor.

A marae (meeting house) in Te Papa museum, Wellington.

Traveling from the North Island to the South Island. So, somewhere between there. :)

Our safety boat, just in case something goes wrong on the ferry.  That's a giant pile of safety first. I like it.

Our water taxi to Abel Tasman.  I got drenched like you couldn't believe.  No one could believe it.  It was amazing. I was cold.

A view of Abel Tasman National Park.

Abel Tasman NP.

Me.  Look at those color combinations! Add an unpleasant smell of 3 days of sweat, saltwater, and peppermint (my organic and eco-friendly cleaner is peppermint scented) and it's like you're there!

Split Apple Rock. Do you see the bird in the middle?  It's the same!  It was a miracle. 

In case you ever wondered why I am single...

Paul and I trekking across the sea at low tide, Abel Tasman NP.

My little tent, it's so awesome! :)

Me, Abel Tasman NP.

Me, on a swing bridge, Abel Tasman NP.